County Business Clubs’ Wine of the Month September 2023

Smock Alley English Sparkling Brut 2019

This month’s Wine of the Month comes from Smock Alley who are in West Sussex at West Chiltington near the village of Pulborough. It takes its name from the traditional Sussex smock mills that can be found throughout the area.

Background to the brand

I have seen Smock Alley wines on a couple of occasions at local events and Farmers’ Markets that I attend but only tasted their wine for the first time last weekend. I met Sarah, the owner, and Mike at the monthly Steyning Farmers’ Market which runs from 9am till 1pm, where they had a stand.

I tried a capful of the golden fizz and was pleasantly surprised with the lovely fruitiness on the nose and nice taste on the palate. All of their wines use the same grapes as most other traditional English sparkling wines and champagnes, which are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

The thing that surprised me the most with this wine was the price which was a Farmers’ Market special of £24 a bottle which is excellent value for an aged English sparkling. Sarah explained to me that they have a small, two hectare holding and work as a co-operative where workers are responsible for tending a number of rows over the season. To put it in their own words; “The combination of teamwork and passion for the vineyard and the product makes a very special wine”.

I have to agree, their wine would match any mid range Champagne in terms of quality, I loved the freshness together with the length of flavour on the palate which was very pleasing with my wife wanting more!

Looking a bit deeper, we see that Smock Alley has had some very able winemakers assisting them in creating their cuvee, namely Dermot Sugrue (ex Nyetimber/Wiston and now Sugrue South Downs) and more recently Marcus Rayner of Wiston Estate. There are no surprises that, despite the great value, the wine is up there with some of the best of West Sussex.

My tasting notes for Smock Alley 2019

It has an enticing nose, it has lovely toastiness like a quality champagne. On the nose, we have delicate spices and sweetness, which very much reminded me of a Cinnamon swirl.

On the palate, we have fine bubbles and an attractive Rose Gold colour which comes from the Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier grapes. It is light and fruity, with citrus lemon with brioche coming through. The wine has good acidity and a long finish.

In summary it has a delightful, freshness with complexity, a lovely drop and a wine that you would happily gift for a special occasion.

This wine retails at £24 a bottle and can be purchased directly from the vineyard  https://www.southlandsvalleywines.com/how-to-buy/

New 2017 release of Smock Alley aged in Burgundy Oak barrels now available!

They also just launched a limited edition 2017 vintage which was aged in Dermot’s Oak Burgundy barrels for first fermentation and four years on the lees which is definitely worth a try at the same time from £32 a bottle.

Written for County Business Club by Michael Yeoman, English Wine Specialist and producer of Spirit of the Downs, award winning local artisan Brandies and Grape spirit.