History: Brighton’s crowning glory – the Royal Pavilion

Brighton owes much to King George IV, as without his patronage it wouldn’t be the tourist attraction that has seen so many millions descend over the centuries since his arrival. Dr Richard Russell also deserves a nod here, as he advised George that sea water would be beneficial to the then Prince of Wales’ health.

Undoubtedly, the jewel in the Brighton Regency crown, the Royal Pavilion is a unique and wonderful palace that combines British grandeur with an interesting take on Indian and Chinese style. 

Originally built in the 18th century, the Pavilion started as a lodging house, relatively modest in style and size. The Prince Regent didn’t really do “modest”, so Henry Holland was commissioned to transform it into a residence fit for a prince. 

Shortly after this, John Nash was hired to expand the property into a pleasure palace, complete with domes, turrets and enough parties to accommodate the Regent’s little black book and expanding waistline.

The word opulent gets thrown around too often these days, but it is hard to think of an alternative from the second you go inside. There is a feast for the eyes from mock bamboo staircases, to gold painted dragons, through pink wallpaper and a host of Chinese/ Indian items of interest. 

Without doubt, a highlight of any trip is the Music Room, highlighted with nine chandeliers shaped to look like lotus flowers. It is not hard to imagine the Prince (or King as he was by the time the construction was completed), hosting a party here with its vaulted ceilings, large dance area and hidden passages for bands. The walls are decorated with rich reds and golds, with blue satin draperies and hundreds of gilded cockleshells making the ceiling feel even higher than it is.

But my favourite of all is the Banqueting Room. This room has been set up to allow the visitor a glimpse into the decadent parties that would have been common here, with bowls serving one purpose – marshmallows. At the time, marshmallows were an expensive delicacy and with five bowls filled to the brim, it shows just how much King George liked to showcase his wealth. There are also glasses galore and a huge dragon holding a chandelier that weighs over a tonne. If you were lucky enough to be invited, the only way of leaving would have been with the aid of a hoist.

If you have children in the party take your time in the kitchen area, the sheer volume of workspace, pots, pans, fires and produce is breath-taking – bonus points if they can spot the two (pretend) rats. Full of fascinating facts and background information, the audio tour leads visitors through the palace room by room and is really worthwhile. It also includes interviews with curators and conservators, and additional images. 

James Dempster