Lunch Review: Edendum

Edendum produces the essence of Italy in all its dishes, and provides the perfect place to bring – and impress – a client or friend…

Edendum, located among a long-line of high quality restaurants in East Street in Brighton, is a café-meet-bistro restaurant with a strong passion for authentic Italian food. On entering, I was welcomed by Diego, one of the Founders of Edendum alongside his partner, Lorenza, both of whom I had met in August 2015 when they first opened. This is their first business and, considering the huge amount of competition in Brighton and the purist philosophy they endeavour to stick to, they have done exceedingly well for themselves.

Diego and Lorenza are both natives of Northern Italy and as such have brought their homeland tastes to British taste buds. When asked why Brighton, Diego answered honestly: “This is the best market. There are so many other high quality restaurants here that we knew our idea and food would be welcomed.”

My guest and I perused the wine list – all Italian wine of course – and decided to let Diego choose a fruity red for me. This went extremely well with the first course, which was also recommended to us by Diego: a Gnocco Fritto to share. Diego explained that this was an extremely traditional dish in northern Italy, but something not many Brits would be aware of. Always wanting to try new things, I dug straight in and was amazed at the fresh flavours of the hams and range of cheeses in front of me, all served with pocket-sized deep-fried, savoury dough balls. We also tried the much-anticipated Girello Marinato – thin slices of beef marinated in honey, cinnamon and with a quince jam on top.

All of the ingredients used in the dishes are from top quality, local and Italian producers, freshly put together on the premises by the three chefs they employ. Diego explained: “We put love into our food, marinating our meats for at least 15 days, and taking time over producing the best dough. We don’t use cream, as many English-Italian restaurants do, and we also make our own produce to sell.” He pointed to the shelves stacked with small jars of sauces, pickled meats, cheeses and packets of home-made pasta – all traditionally made by independent Italian producers.

For main course, I went for the home-made Gnocchi with toma cheese sauce and home-made basil pesto. And my guest went with a seafood dish with squid, octopus, sea bass, salad and home-made mayonnaise. This was the first time I had tried Gnocchi and it was melt-in-your-mouth, ultimate comfort food. It was rich, flavoursome and thoroughly enjoyable. The mixed fish dish looked extremely appetizing and every part of it was perfectly cooked. The home-made mayonnaise was fantastic!

Although we were extremely full, Diego insisted that we try a dessert. So, reluctantly (he didn’t exactly have to force the issue), we ordered a tiramisu, which he then also insisted that we try with a glass of amaretto.

From beginning to end, we were looked after by Diego, and his passion for good food and for his Italian roots were apparent throughout his demeanour and the dishes themselves. Even as we left, coming up to 3pm, there were still people pouring through the door simply to order a true Italian coffee, showing that this place really has struck a great middle ground between a restaurant and a café; laid back but with high quality food. I would go back to Edendum in a heartbeat, even if just for a coffee, or to have another tiramisu and glass of amaretto!

Edendum, Brighton

Address:
69 East Street,
Brighton,
East Sussex,
BN1 1HQ

Telephone: 01273 733800      |      Web: www.edendum.co.uk